Shakedown in the Smokies

                "There's a hole in this mountain it's dark and it's deep
                 And God only knows all the secrets that it keeps"

                         -from "The Mountain" by Levon Helm


Last week I decided to disregard my better judgement and do a ride with KC in the southern Smoky Mountains.   I say it was against my better judgement because it was pretty warm and I really hate wearing all the gear (full Aerostich pants, jacket, leather gloves and a full coverage helmet) in weather that is hot and humid.  Still, it was an excellent opportunity to stage a shakedown for our September ride and see how my GS, the Adventure panniers and my packing system would do over a multi-day tour.  Long story short, it did fine.  It was also a test for how I'd hold up with several consecutive days riding on some varied and challenging routes.  I survived just fine.


Our first day's route took us from home in northeast Georgia to Ellijay then through a brief downpour in Chattanooga (we were here so KC could check out a BMW dealership), then north up Hwy 58 towards Knoxville and then south on I-40 through the incredibly scenic Pigeon River Gorge and into Maggie Valley, NC....a total of about 375 miles, which is definitely on the high side for me.  Maggie Valley lies smack in the heart of some of the best riding in the Blue Ridge Mountains.  We stayed at the Smoky Falls Lodge in Maggie Valley...covered motorcycle parking, nice clean room, good wifi, good A/C and quiet....in short, everything a touring motorcyclist needs.  Dinner (fresh bread, bottles of cold water, Grey Goose for KC, fried calamari, veal marsala, spaghetti with marinara and key lime pie...slurp!) was at an absurdly good Italian restaurant...Frankie's Italian Trattoria...and the best waitress I've ever had. This is THE spot in Maggie Valley.

While at the Smoky Falls Lodge I met two guys that were also motorcycle touring.  One guy was on a 1992 Goldwing with 155,000 miles.  He traveled alone and his route was New Jersey to Georgia to San Diego, up the west coast to northern Montana and then home!  This was the extent of his "plan".  He was in his 60's and he inspired me to go long!   The second guy, traveling alone on a Harley, was 5 years from retirement and lived in Ohio.  He was scouting retirement locales and was focused on Maggie Valley...smart move.  It reinforced what a popular destination these southern Appalachian Mountains are.

The next morning was sunny with temps in the low 50's...just about perfect!  KC and I headed up Hwy 19 towards Ashville, turning south on Hwy 151.  As soon as we turned onto Hwy 151 we spotted two hot air balloons and were able get close to the area where they were landing.  Beautiful sights.  Out came my new Fuji XT-1 and I was able to get close enough for the 18-135mm lens to do it's thing.

After chasing the balloons we headed up onto the Blue Ridge Parkway and rode it for a hour or so, until a gaggle of Harley riders got the best of us (ten of them, all riding 10MPH UNDER the freaking speed limit) and we dropped off the Parkway onto Hwy 74 near Balsam. 

The scenery on the BRP was great and we were treated to lots of very typical "smoky" views and could easily see 10-15 ridge lines very clearly separated by the haze.

Once off the Parkway we wandered west into Cherokee and stopped briefly at an abandoned motel named The Warrior Motel

where KC recalled having spent a childhood vacation.  It appeared to have recently served as a location for a yard sale and I guess that's what Marilyn was here for.

We continued west and eventually ended up at the Fontana Dam and spent an hour soaking up the A/C in the visitor center.

We spent that night at the Iron Horse Campground in Stecoah, NC and rode into Bryson City for dinner at the Bryson City Cork and Bean.  Neither met my expectations...dinner was so-so and my $120 room had no wifi, no table, no chair and no TV.  In addition to this, KC's room had no AC.  But the campground's owners are very, very nice people and they are trying hard...I'll give it another try.  KC tells me it rained last night, but I was out cold and missed it.

The next morning we decided to start early and head for home.  After a decent breakfast at the Iron Horse Campground, our route took us down Hwy 28 to Franklin....a popular and scenic route that features lots of tight twisties and Little Tennessee River views.  It is an excellent place to remember to stay "OFF THE GODDAMN CENTERLINE".  Once in Franklin we took 441 south and I was home by 10:30.

Once home I replaced my burned out low beam and topped off the oil with a half quart.  I think I am ready for the Rockies!